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  Due to the high readership of this post it will remain posted for one more week. Thanks to all for the interest and great comments...Ken
Hot glue guns and hot melt adhesives are a part of most homeowners, hackers, and craft folk’s arsenal.  Generally speaking, they are an effective way to bond a variety of surfaces. But what happens when you want some color other than clear or amber? Well, you can buy color glue sticks with a limited range of color at a high price, or follow this project and make virtually any color as needed. The slideshow is intended as a guideline for making a limited number of hot glue sticks at one time. It is not intended as a method for mass production.

  Domestic hot glue adhesives are all over the map in composition, open time, tack, viscosity, and bond strength. Many are based on ethylene-vinyl acetate with added modifiers. The two sizes most easily acquired are 11 mm, (7/16"), (.43”), and 7mm, (9/32"), (.28”) diameters. The standard length is 4”. For this demonstration I am using standard “Surebonder All Purpose Glue Sticks”, 11mm, the most commonly available size. But, there is the opportunity for experimentation with all of these hot glue adhesives. The key to this process is the Reynold's  parchment  paper which is coated on both sides with silicone. It is food safe and performs up to 420 Fahrenheit. It is a great release agent for hot glue.
CAUTION: Hot glues guns operate at close to 400 Fahrenheit and can cause burns. This project is not for children, but for responsible, safety conscious adults. There is more surface area when heating in an open container and more fumes as well. Due to the unknown composition of hot glue adhesives it would be advisable to do this project in a well ventilated area.
Parts and pieces:
  • Brass tube 12 inches long, 17/32" diameter,  .014 wall thickness. K&S Engineering Stock# 140 . Available at Ace and True Value hardware as well as others. K&S home here:
  • Reynold's Parchment Baking Paper. Others may work but this is the one that I used.
  • Silicone spray (Optional but helpful to protect tube exterior and other surfaces from unwanted hot glue adhesion.
  • Standard hot glue sticks for melting.
  • Color crayons. I used Crayola.
  • Disposable metal container for melting and mixing hot glue. I used a tuna can fashioned with a pouring spout.


Tips and tricks:
If there is difficulty with pouring, make a silicone funnel as shown. You can also make a cardboard funnel with a parchment paper insert if no silicone funnels are available. Silicone seems to be the best material for release properties. You can also add up to 10% by weight of paraffin wax to reduce the viscosity without sacrificing bond strength. Preheating the tube while heating the glue/color can buy you a little more pour time. Let filled tube cool about 20 to 30 minutes and disassemble. Parchment paper can be reused many times.
Before cutting the tube, wrap a glue stick in the parchment paper and push it beyond where you will make the cut. This will reduce the depression made by the tubing cutter.
There may be some variability in the tubing ID so making the parchment paper longer will decrease the finished stick diameter.
As in any additive color system, white crayon can be added to lighten the color.
Good luck and let me know if I can improve the process. Thanks, Ken...
 


Comments

PinkSpikyHairMan
08/15/2011 05:37

Thanks for this!

Reply
Robotic_Mage
08/15/2011 09:35

Have you thought of just using the full 12" tube? You would definitely need to pre heat the tube, but then you have a nice 12" stick, instead of having to fumble to add more sticks.

Roboticmage

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Dennis
08/15/2011 10:13

Try spraying the outside of the tube/parchment assembly, and dipping the whole thing in the melt. Fish it out, let cool, and you should be able to flake the excess right back into the melting pot. Just a way to eliminate the pouring process all together.

Reply
Don
08/16/2011 05:38

You need to list everything you use in making these sticks. The tile, tubing cutter, and gloves need to be shown as materials and equipment needed. It makes the instructions unclear until you have read the complete set of instructions and looked at all the pictures. Something to stabilize the tube and hold it upright would be a nice addition when pouring. Doesn't the glue stick to the tile or do you put a small piece of parchment paper under the tube end to keep the glue from sticking?

Reply
08/16/2011 09:47

Great project - very cool! Colored glue stick sets would be a cool gift for some of my students!

Thanks for posting this (a tube holder would be a good idea as Don mentions ;-)

Reply
08/18/2011 15:41

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kit
08/18/2011 16:25

i cant wait to try this!

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Francine T
08/20/2011 08:09

I tried this technique with the lower temperature glue that I use for crafts. It worked perfectly! I made some fall colors that are not available anywhere. Thank you so much for the great post that was easy to follow. Very creative! Cheers, Francine

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Sara
10/25/2011 13:17

Thank you so much for this! I am an artist working with hot glue, and this project has completely opened new creative doors for me.
I've followed your process and done it about 3 times now; it is mostly successful, but yet to have a perfect round.

I'm finding that the can I'm using (also from Tuna) sometimes seems to be burning (or something) and little black flecks are in the glue melt. Can you suggest any other type of container to melt in? maybe something more permanent than a tin can? I don't want to eat that much tuna! :)

Reply
Jason P
03/26/2012 23:37

Teflon, see my post below.

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Harry
02/08/2012 12:26

Sara, The flake particles found in the melted mix is burnt coating coming off the inside of the tin can!

Reply
02/08/2012 14:46

Thanks for the comment Harry! I figured the same thing and emailed Sara to try either coated measuring containers or non-stick muffin containers. I guess thay I was lucky with my uncoated tuna cans. Ken

Reply
Alex
03/16/2012 11:46

You say "You can also add up to 10% by weight of paraffin wax to reduce the viscosity without sacrificing bond strength". How much less viscous are we talking about? I need to get a fairly fluid consistence to fill up a mould. Thanks.

Reply
Kenquast
03/16/2012 14:27

Hi Alex,
I arrived at 10% based on my need to bond to non-porous surfaces. But, it sounds as if you want to use it as a mold making material. In that case, are you more concerned about tear strength than the bond? I would suggest an experiment to make a small amount in increments and add up to 100 % and pour it on parchment paper to test both bond and tear strength. Additionally, you can raise the temperature and get better fluidity. But please post any results as it may help someone else. Thanks, Ken.

Reply
li
03/26/2012 15:16

what if i dont have a tube?

Reply
Kenquast
03/26/2012 15:37

I have used both Plaster of Paris to make a mold and lined it with the parchment paper and I have even used a cardboard form lined with parchment paper. But, the tube is much easier and better but there are other alternatives as I have suggested. Good luck, Ken.

Reply
Jason P
03/26/2012 23:19

It's crazy that I just saw this. I discovered this last summer doing an independent study (I'm an art student). I've only tried silicone as a method for making sticks, can't wait to try the tubing.

Some things I've learned: Teflon makes an excellent, reusable alternative to the can. I use teflon (non stick) pans from thrift stores. However, if the material gets on the bottom of the pan, it burns when reheated and produces thick toxic smoke. To get past this, dunk the pan about immediately about halfway in cold water after pouring (glue is bouyant and will float instead of drift to the bottom).

Casting: Using a glue gun can help for small molds because you can literally push it into all of the spaces you need. Two part systems also work well, pour into the deeper half and over-pour slightly to account for the remaining space (flashing is very easy to remove with this stuff). Air bubbles however can be a wicked problem no matter how you're casting. If anyone figures out anything further about casting, please let me know.

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Jason P
03/26/2012 23:29

Also, powder pigments color it very nicely (charcoal makes an amazing, rich black). I even tried eyeshadow recently. Powder pigments do seem to increase viscosity though whereas the crayons lower it.

Another note about teflon: Draw an image on a teflon cookie sheet, pour glue onto it. Let it cool and peel off the material, and a monoprint of your drawing will be on the other side. I've been trying to figure out how to do this three-dimensionally.
Again, if anyone has any ideas, let me know.... So stoked I found this, been doing research for months now

Reply
Jason P
03/26/2012 23:27

Also, powder pigments color it very nicely (charcoal makes an amazing, rich black). I even tried eyeshadow recently. Powder pigments do seem to increase viscosity though whereas the crayons lower it.

Another note about teflon: Draw an image on a teflon cookie sheet, pour glue onto it. Let it cool and peel off the material, and a monoprint of your drawing will be on the other side. I've been trying to figure out how to do this three-dimensionally.
Again, if anyone has any ideas, let me know.... So stoked I found this, been doing research for months now

Reply



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